Trailangel Apple's hiker shelter -- just about saved my sanity. Thank you, Apple!
Another sanity-saver -- Razor Creek has been improved by trail crews. There's now a small basin, which usually fills up after every afternoon shower.
Beautiful views a few hundred feet to the right of the trail, around miles 4 to 6.5. Well-worth a little extra exploring!
This segment meanders through the grassy fields of Sergent's Mesa, down through dry and scrubby pine, and up again through wetter woods, over bald mountaintops, and finally winds its way through the aspens and brush of Lujan creek. There are lots of climbs, each followed shortly by lots of steep descents. And there's not much water.
That's the tough bit. When I passed through, I knew I needed about a liter for every four miles, plus another one or two at night. (That's rather a lot, but I'm in crappy shape.) That means finding water for a twelve-mile dry section, plus a dry camp, is tough. I wasn't aware, then, of a rather obvious trick: when you come to a spring, drink. Drink, then drink some more. Sit down beside the creek and polish off two liters. Carrying water in your belly is much easier and more efficient than hauling it on your back.
Since I didn't know that, this segment posed some difficulties. Which makes it all the more a blessing that Apple set up his hiker shelter here, around mile 17.8. Apple's a trailangel, the first of my acquaintance. Trailangels are individuals who have a soft place in their hearts for long trails... and the crazy people who hike them. They drive up to a trailhead with coolers full of snacks and drinks, and sometimes also bring folding chairs (real chairs!) or even fresh foods and a portable stove. One trailangel made omelets all day long for starving thru-hikers. Others, like Apple, choose places where hikers frequently get themselves into trouble and need some R&R -- last year, he said, he was pulling severely dehydrated people off the mountain and hauling them into town, because Razor creek wasn't running at all (if there isn't snow or afternoon thunderstorms, don't trust it!)
The valley between 17.8 and 20.4 is thick with cows -- these ones clustered stupidly near the cattle guard, entirely blocking the way.
Oddly, the sign here says 'road closed.' Duh, really?
About mile 5.0, cairns lead the way off to the right, to an overlook, bench, and great flat campsites.
Suggested updates to the guidebook:
0.0
The trail heads slightly up, then gradually down into more interesting terrain. There are a great many mushrooms throughout this area.
1.0
It's tough to tell that this knob has been burned, now. But there aren't any intersecting trails -- just follow the road. You can't get lost.
2.3
About when you start thinking you must surely have gone too far, you'll find this turnoff to the right. It's now clearly signposted, and the route well-trod. It's hard to miss.
~5.0
Somewhere around here, just where the thick forest starts to thin out, a few half-hidden cairns lead the way to the right. There are fantastic, flat spaces here for camping, and a very lovely overlook with a bench. No water, though.
6.9
The trail for a half-mile radius around the baldy lake turnoff is thick with mosquitoes, as is Baldy lake. If you've had rain, if there are puddles on the trail, you're almost certainly safe to skip baldy lake and go ahead to Razor creek instead.
10.5
Razor creek doesn't quite deserve it's 'half-cup-full' designation in the databook. It drains a very small valley, so if there hasn't been rain in the past day or two, you'll be out of luck. The creek has been improved, however -- there's a small basin built of stones just beside the road.
10.8
There's a fantastic camping spot here, just before the trail leaves the creekbed and heads left.
11.5, 12.4, 12.8
Trails break off from the CT. They are well-signposted.
17.8
Join up with a dirt road. This is where Apple, a trailangel, had set up shop.
19.2
Lujan creek was flowing very well when I passed (though it was an excellent water year.) If you've been seeing plenty of rain and Lujan creek is full at this point, then don't worry too much about water -- Pine and Archuleta creeks, up ahead, will almost certainly be flowing. Past this point, BTW, it's hard to quickly get out of sight of passing vehicles for about the next 3 miles, so if you need to pee....
20.4
The tarmac here looks alien after so long on the trail! Turn right and head down the road about a mile or so. Keep an eye open to your left for a very wide, deep parking area.
The elevation listing here is not correct -- the elevation at mile 10 should read 11200, not 12200. Big difference. Also, I *believe* the elevations of the minor summits at 14.6 and 15.5 should be around 11250 and 10700. However, it's possible that my cheap little altimeter had a malfunction. I certainly felt like *I* was having one -- all those darned false summits, dips and climbs!
---> Onward, to segment 18!
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