Deadman creek, mile 4.5. Scary name but tasty water!
Masses of flowers amongst the stunted evergreens growing near Georgia pass.
The pack takes a little break near the crest of Georgia pass. I should really take the laundry in.
Where it passes across the divide, the trail is easy to follow. The track is worn deep in alpine soil, and the way is additionally marked by very long poles. I wouldn't want to be caught up here in winter snows!
Clearcut and replanted sections around Swan creek are like strange little bleak, hot Christmas-tree farms.
The clearcuts aren't large, though, and soon give way to mossy old-growth along ridgelines.
This is the longest segment of the Colorado Trail, but is thoroughly pleasant. The first eight miles or so pass through open parks and dense, fragrant forest. Some of the downed trees are 5' tall - in cross-section and after years of weathering – some of the living trees are broader still. There was plenty of water this year, too. I actually filled all my reserve bottles and hauled some five liters over Georgia pass, thinking I'd consume much more water on the climb than turns out to be humanly possible. Don't do this. Really.
The views from Georgia pass were splendid, and the alpine zone was carpeted in flowers. It's well-worth the climb. Many hikers see mountain goats, too – all I saw were dirtbikers roaring up and down the alpine hilltops. It does feel a little strange, to work for so long to attain a summit, only to find that others got themselves there with staggeringly little effort. Guess that's how things go, sometimes. ;)
From the swan river onwards, there's plenty of company. Especially amusing are the hard-core mountainbikers who also wear ipods, for they are fantastically oblivious. I had one gentleman pull his bike over, choose a handy tree, and urinate about fifteen feet from where I sat resting on a log. The ‘eep' he emitted when he turned to remount and found me (waving cheerfully) nearby would have done proud any twelve-year-old girl.
The miles of trail before Breckenridge are the setting for a big annual mountainbike race, on or around the 17th of July. I was fortunate to be able to get to town to enjoy the concurrent beer festival, but other hikers were not so lucky, and crawled into town with tales of clinging in desperation to trees on hillsides while scores of bikers barreled by.
Breckenridge was, I think, my second-favorite town along the trail. It's very tourist-y, but that means you can pick up some superb gourmet goods for the road, such as chocolate-peanutbutter pretzel bites, herb-crusted salamis, salmon jerky, artisan cheeses, enormous fresh-baked soft cookies, and more. Also, it has one of the best places to stay of any town – the Fireside Inn, run by the awesome, sweet, and helpful Niki. (Take the free bus all the way to the station at the end of the line, and then walk about four blocks south-east to the corner of French and Wellington streets.) They have two firendly standard poodles, a big leather couch and flatscreen for snoozing by the TV, showers with all kinds of gels and shampoos, dorm beds each with their own light, curtains, cubby, and bedding for 28 bucks, girls' and boys' rooms, internet, laundry, a fridge and microwave... and they're located two blocks from town center. Rooms are more expensive but a good option if you want your own space – but if you'll be arriving on a weekend, make absolutely certain to book your accommodation ahead of time. The place fills up very fast, and there's not much else that's affordable anywhere near town.
Plenty of flowers along the way, as always!
Long views approaching Breckenridge.
At long last, Breckenridge comes into sight in the distance. The dead trees in the foreground are victims of the pine beetle, the depredations of which are a widespread cause of concern.
Guidebook update suggestions:
0.0
Cross the big busy road, then head uphill from the parking area. The trail then starts off to your left, at a registry. There's supposed to be water at the campsites on both sides of the road, but I couldn't find it, and several people were also wandering around looking for the taps. Good luck.
2.2
Trail heads downhill through some aspens, beneath which was the biggest and thickest carpet of Colorado-blue columbines I ever saw on the trail. Hope your camera batteries are holding up.
3.1
Camped beside the large stream here – there are several nice sites in the area, including some big ones that can easily be accessed by car. This makes them the favorite stomping grounds of ATV enthusiasts. Which isn't all bad – I traded a bag of marshmallows for some much-needed bug spray and aspirin at one of their campsites.
~7.0
The climb up to Georgia pass is long and even, and was also better-watered this year than the books indicate. Many supposedly ‘waterless' campsites were in fact served by picturesque little trickles.
14.2
Several lovely (but actually waterless) campsites are near the trail a couple miles after Georgia pass, just where the trail turns west and starts its long descent off the mountain.
~19
Swan river has an extensive campground and, especially around the streams, many confusing side paths and dirt roads. Stay alert for markers.
26.0
The guide/databook instructions for the last potion of the trail is confusing, but in actuality, the trail is very easy to follow. The occasional side trails are much smaller than the CT and are clearly not maintained to the same standard.
~28
The hummingbirds toward Breckenridge are pushy little monsters. Got a bright orange piece of gear? The little suckers will fly right into your tent to check it out. Also, never ever wear a red hat.
32.9
The bus into Breckenridge was running every hour at ten minutes to the hour (3:50, 4:50, etc) in the afternoons/evenings, and ever half hour (7:20, 7:50, 8:20, etc) in the early morning. They also list their schedule online, if you want to double check.
The elevation profile for this segment is roughly correct. However – and unusually for databook elevation profiles – it is *not* as bad as it looks. The segment is just very long, so the profile is horizontally compressed. Climbs are switchbacked and the trail is quite smooth.
---> Onward, to segment 7!
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